What Does a Henhouse Need and What’s Just Nice to Have!The Green Acre Homestead got very lucky in that we didn’t have to build our henhouse because it was there when we bought our house. It was such a relief! But of course, what works for one may not work for another. I sure do wish I had pictures of our henhouse before I made changes but hindsight really is 20/20. There was a backward feeding trough right in front of the roosts, weird half boxes above their nesting boxes and no hanging hooks for the water containers. Another thing I would change if I were to start from scratch is the shape. Our henhouse is a curved “A-Frame” shape and after having this style, I would prefer a boxier style simply because it would be easier to modify and provide more space to manipulate. I’m all about the spacial relations. Here are the things you have to have in a henhouse, and then some that are just nice to have.
SHELTER AND ROOSTS ARE WHAT YOUR HENHOUSE NEEDS!You want to make sure your chickens have a clean, dry space to go in order to get out of the elements if they need to. There’s been a fair amount of rain here lately and, although they sometimes love playing in it, it’s nice to know I have a great space for my chickens to go if they need/want. Inside the house, I’ve since added more roosting space for my chooks. I have more than enough roosting space but, for some reason, they prefer to all roost at the top bar. I suspect that if I kick the roosting area out a bit more so it isn’t as steep, they may disperse. But until then, I’ve added some more roosting spots on the other side. Here’s the main roosting area (At the bottom of the roost is where the trough was; the opening of the trough was facing the roost…how does that work? It had to go!):
NESTING BOXESYou want to aim for a 1:4 ratio. One box to every four hens. If you already own chickens you know that often they just choose a couple boxes and lay every egg they can in it! I have 8 nesting boxes and about 20 hens. I rarely have eggs in more than 4 different boxes, and it’s often 3 boxes. Here’s my nesting area. Off to the right, you can see the small roosting spot I added: The white grids in front of the boxes are to keep the ladies and gents out at night, compliments of the previous owner. I do this for two reasons: One, it’s healthy for your chickens to roost and two my chickens will sleep and poop in their boxes and I got tired scooping poop every morning and wasting bedding. I use pine bedding in their boxes because it’s the only material they don’t immediately scratch the ground. Straw is hopeless in my henhouse. Remember those odd little half boxes I mentioned? They were above the nesting boxes…I could never figure out what they were for so out they went.
WATER AND FOODAnother characteristic I added to our henhouse was hanging waterers. This took me about two years to do and I’m not quite sure why. Honestly, besides the space issue, hanging waterers are probably the best Pinterest project I’ve done to date. This is one example of how the “A-Frame” design works against me, but we make it work. The biggest pro to hanging your waterers is that it’s much more difficult for your chickens to kick dirt into them. The only con to hanging waterers is that my chickens sometimes chase each other and slosh the water out. This is easy to get around by just making sure the waters aren’t able to swing as much. We also have nipple waterers under the nesting boxes and I plan to add more of them eventually. I also plan to add feeding troughs back into the henhouse…once I figure out the most space efficient way to do it. I currently use metal feeding bowls but those get tipped over far too easy.
FLOORING AND BEDDINGSince we didn’t build our henhouse we didn’t get to choose the floor and ours is dirt. Luckily for us, we don’t have problems with predators digging in. Of course, that might be because we have a big dog that barks all night, who knows. If you live in an area where predators are a problem, you’ll want a sturdier floor. Wood and concrete are both acceptable flooring options because you’ll be putting bedding on top of it. Even though the base of our henhouse is dirt, I still add bedding for a few reasons.
- We live in Florida and the heat and humidity are real. Things start to smell weird in the henhouse if there’s nothing to soak up all the chook poop. I used to use hay and straw and now I strictly use pine shavings, as I do in their nesting boxes. The pine shavings suck all the moisture up and also smell wonderful. I immediately noticed a difference when I switched to pine.
- Three words: Deep litter compost. You can practice deep litter composting with any type of floor and here’s a really great article on how. It’s especially good for you folks that have heavy winters.
THE EXTRAS AND ADD-ONSThere are a few aspects of our current henhouse that I do love, and suggest.
- There’s a door at each end of the henhouse which aids in really wonderful air circulation. The doors also keep it nice and cool on hot Florida days.
- We also have multiple power outlets. This is nice because we can plug in a heat lamp to raise our chicks in the hen house.
- We have fluorescent ceiling lights down the middle of the ceiling equipped with a light switch.
- There are two water lines in the house and the third right outside one of the doors. The third water source has a little concrete square beneath it. It’s one of those little things in life that I just love.
- The middle door that closes in the part of the henhouse where the water buckets and brooder is. Eventually, I’ll move the waters and that’ll be the room our teenage chicks are raised in order to easily integrate them into the flock. We currently move them to a small henhouse in a different part of the yard. This area could also potentially be used as a sort of “quarantine” spot in some situations.
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